Five Ponds Wilderness backpacking, Adirondacks

The route: 20km trail from Wanakena to Sand Lake, overnight at Sand Lake lean-to and back the next day.

Originally we’d planned to do the High Falls loop but we were enticed by what we read about Sand Lake: that it’s just about as remote as you can get in the Adirondacks and a really pretty campsite by the sandy shore, surrounded by deeply wooded hills.

August 26, 2018

It’s only a 2.5 hour drive from Ottawa to Wanakena, a very small town at the edge of The Five Ponds Wilderness. There’s not much in town, but we did find a small shop called Otto’s Abode, where a really friendly and helpful guy sold us a map of the area. He told us about a short cut to the trail to Sand Lake, which made the trek there more doable, since we were starting later than ideal: 10am.

It was raining pretty hard as we turned into the parking lot for the High Falls loop trail, but fortunately it soon ebbed and we were on our way.

The trail is fairly wide and flat to start, but after 3kms we find the cairn indicating the shortcut trail. As the Otto’s guy said, though the trail is not in the map, it is easy to follow, well maintained, and even has blue trail markers to follow. Quite narrow though, under a canopy of trees blocking the sky. It rained off and on as we hiked the 4.7kms to the trail junction with the High Falls loop.

By now it was noon and we were hungry. We turned right and soon we found the left turn and trail markers for the Sand Lake trail. There was a flat spot by the trail where we had lunch of PB and apple on bread, followed by lots of chocolate. As we ate, a father and his two young sons hiked past, the only people we’d see over the two days. They were really friendly, asking us all sorts of questions about our hike. When we told them we are Canadians they thought that was so funny because just that morning they were talking about how they never meet Canadians on this trail. They’re from Canton.

From the junction, it’s 4kms to the Big Shallow lean-to. And along the way we had to navigate across four beaver dams. I got a good soaker along the way. Aside from that it’s a nice, narrow trail through the forest and across a few brooks. The brook water looks quite red- I wonder why.

About 1km further from Big Shallow is Little Shallow lean-to.

As we hike these trails we often have to swat mosquitoes which is surprising for late August. But I guess it’s a pretty wet area.

We have over 6kms from Little Shallow to Sand Lake. As I hike along, there is suddenly a distinct thud beside me. I look down and realize a large, half eaten frog has just fallen from the sky, almost landing on my head. Creepy.

A little later I hear a crash behind me: Kim has slipped off a log and landed in the middle of a stretch of water logged trail. She’s sprawled in her back, arms and legs flailing as she tries to get up, but soon exclaims she can’t get up and she’s sinking deeper. I decide that instead of taking a picture I better help her up. Probably a good choice as she was temporarily crabby after the fall. Because of the rain the trail was slick.

The last 4kms to Sand Lake the trail is pretty easy going, thankfully. We arrived at 4pm to a very pretty campsite – and thank goodness it was empty! The lean-to is in great shape and there’s a picnic table and bench. The lake a is a good size with sandy shores. After I boiled water and got our couscous dinners soaking, I stripped down nude for a very refreshing dip in the cool lake. If I’d brought my swim hat and goggles I could’ve gone for a real swim.

Except for some short periods of rain here and there, it mostly stopped raining. We sat on the edge of the lento for dinner of couscous with cranberries, garlic, onion, beet powder, broccoli, avocado, walnuts, dried chickpeas, and nutrition yeast. Yum! We took some chocolate to a log by the lake and indulged as we admired the view.

Afterwards, we decided to make a little fire. We gathered pine needles, leaves as dry as we could find, and little twigs. It wasn’t really working, as everything was quite damp, so we added a few paper towels which did the trick. I spent the rest of the evening reading my book by the fire as Kim constantly tended to it. She was transfixed!

We set up the bug net part of our tent in the shelter and were very cozy inside around 8pm, after I found a suitable spot for our bear barrel aways away.

Drifted to sleep to Pure Quiet. Woke in the night to pee and noticed a full moon and again I was struck by the quiet.

August 27, 2018

Woke around 5:15am feeling refreshed. It was still dark out, so at 5:30 I used my headlamp to find the bear barrel, untouched.

It was a warm, still morning. In the dim light, I could see the lake was calm and steaming, with the full moon over head. I stripped down and went for a refreshing swim, then made coffee. We sat on a log by the lake eating cooking and drinking coffee while reading the lean-to’s visitor journal. The last visitor was a week ago. I made an entry, then we got packed up and were on our way out just past 7am.

We hiked quickly and retraced yesterday’s steps. Saw moose prints and beat scat but no animals. The only incident was that we were low on water. Every stream we passed looked too red so we rationed, which made Kim anxious. But fortunately it was a beautiful day and we hiked the 20kms in under 5 hours, including a lunch break of PB and Apple on bread, and some chocolate.

On our way home we stopped at a cute cafe in Star Lake across from the CK gas station. Both have wifi and we were very impressed by the gas station amenities.

Near Oswegatchie we stopped at Adirondack Rustics and it was a great store! Lots of handmade wood furnishings and some art. I bought Elsa a book about animal poo.

White Mountains Day 3: South Carter and North Carter

The plan for today was North and South Kinsman, which is just over 18kms via the loop we’d planned. We parked at Franconia campground, which is free and has spouts with potable water.

It was a beautiful day and we were feeling good, though sore from the last few days. The loop first goes by Lonesome Lake hut, which, as usual, was buzzing with kids. We continued to Fishin Jimmy trail, which was actually an accident as we had meant to loop back that way. Oh well, just doing the loop in reverse.

As we hiked up towards Kinsman pond and shelter, a tendon under my right foot started to feel tight, which was a bit worrisome. We were hoping to find a swim spot at Kinsman pond, but the whole thing was covered in lily pads.

Soon we were at the turn off for the Kinsman mountains. At this point, it was getting pretty busy on trail with thruhikers and dayhikers. I always like chatting with people on trail, but Chouko has been making this difficult due to frustratingly barking at most people. A problem which only seems to be getting worse 😦

We didn’t notice the summit cairn for North Kinsman, but we did see a cliff with a  great view of the Franconia range. Although I was quite hungry, we decided to press on to South Kinsman (0.9 miles away) before having lunch. The trail was relatively easy between the two, and soon we arrived at a false summit. We continued along the trail to a huge cairn indicating the summit, with a chair built into it.

The view was ok from here, so we tied Chouko up with some food and water for him, and made our pb&banana Ezekiel wraps.

It was 10.5kms to the summit via the long loop but we planned to take the slightly shorter way back.

As we neared the parking lot a few hardy trail maintenance workers passed us with their huge wood panels carrying all sorts of heavy gear. They told us they were working on the Lonesome trail due to its overuse. I told them how much I appreciate the work they do – and that the trails in the Whites seem way better maintained than in the ADKs!

Back at the car just over 18kms and 8 hours after we’d departed. We decided to head to Lincoln for a very refreshing dip in the swim hole, and for dinner.

Back at Purple Tomato, Kim asked the very nice girls at the sandwich counter a ton of questions about the mac & cheese, but we finally ordered a bbq beef sandwich and a veg burrito.

I then went to the bathroom while Kim went out to check on Chouko, who was in his crate on the picnic table. As I was walking out, the sandwich girl was coming in and said to me “I thought she was talking to a box!” Turns out Kim had been bent over talking to Chouko as she came out with food, and she was startled to see Kim bent over, talking. Kim had to explain that there was a dog in there. I laughed so hard!!!

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dinner at Purple Tomato. Chouko in his “box”

It’s approximately a half hour drive from Lincoln to our stealth campsite. We were in the tent reading by 7:30pm. Chouko content in his crate in the vestibule with his denta stick.

New Hampshire’s White Mountains Day 1: Mount Willey, Mount Field & Mount Tom

July 7, 2017

As usual, due to trip anticipation and excitement, Kim and I woke up before 3am Friday morning. Too many trip thoughts running through our heads – we were up for the day. We finished packing up our stuff, made beet/carrot/Apple/quinoa for lunch on the road, and drove off, coffees in hand, at 6am.

We found the dirt road we’d be car camping along easily, and about half the sites were still available. We threw up our tent and were quickly on the road again to Willey road trailhead, where we’d start our hike. When I was up at 3am I decided it would be good to get one of the hikes in today – as tomorrow’s forecast was calling for rain. We decided to hike Mt Willey, Mt Field, and Mt Tom today, as they are considered easy/moderate by the website I’d found. I was a bit surprised by the rating, considering it’s 11.3 miles over 3 mountains (and back over 2). Continue reading

Adirondacks: Dial & Nippletop, Sawteeth, Tenting at Keene Valley Hostel

We decided to splurge this trip to the ADKs and set up our tent in the back of Keene Valley Hostel instead of one of the free car camping sites we usually use. The days are short and the mornings are chilly so we liked the idea of having a warm dining room, kitchen and common area to hang out in during the mornings and eves. Plus there is a full kitchen at the hostel so we’d be able to make all our own food. Continue reading

Hiking in the Catskills, NY

Kim and I spent 3 days, including a six hour drive each way from Ottawa, hiking in the Catskills. We climbed 6 of the 35 peaks over 3500 feet – the beginning of a new challenge? We’ll see. The main goal was to climb the two over 4000 feet, as they are part of the NE115 I’m working on. I’m now at 94/115.

Six climbed: Panther, Wittenberg, Cornell, Slide, Hunter, SW Hunter

Friday, September 23: Six hour drive to Woodstock, NY, hike up Giant Ledge and Panther mountain (17.5kms, 5 hours, 3370 foot elevation gain)

When Kim and I wake up I can tell it’s too early. Yep, 2am. But we’re way too excited to fall back asleep so we get up and start getting ready. By 4:30 were finally on the road, arriving in Woodstock by about 11am. What a funky, hippy town. We just make one brief stop to buy hiking maps.  Continue reading

Nepal Earthquake & Avalanche experience: Langtang 2015

April 28, 2015

Its 3:30am and I am at a sort of camp in Kathmandu. They say it is safe here – as can be. We still feel aftershocks.

Langtang was hit hard. There was a list of survivors that was trying to be sent down for the embassies but I don’t have a copy and I don’t know if a copy ever made it.

Erland, Nisha and I were fortunate to be in Kyanjin Gumpa during the earthquake and avalanches, where most of the survivors in our camp were. We had just come back from climbing the 15,659 foot peak of Kyanjin Ri and were eating lunch on the second floor of the tea house when the room started to shake violently. Wide eyed, Erland asked, ‘What’s that?’ I yelled back, ‘Get out of here!’ And we ran down the rickety ladder steps to the yard where we saw Nisha. Continue reading

Hut to Hut backpacking the White Mountains

August 25: Ottawa to Lonesome Lake Hut

Up at 2am and can’t fall back asleep due to trip excitement. Wake Kim at 3am and we’re on the road at 4am!

We park and take the AMC shuttle from the Zealand trailhead parking lot (where we plan to finish our hike after 5 days) to Lonesome Hut trailhead, which takes about 45 minutes.

We make great time hiking up to Lonesome Lake. We see a sign that says 1.9 miles to Cannon Mountain and, adrenalin pumping through our veins, we decide to go for it. We shoot up the trail, wanting to be back at Lonesome Hut in time for the 6pm dinner. Continue reading

Adirondacks: Rocky Peak Ridge via blueberry Cobbles and Bald Peak

The day started shortly after the sun came up. My hiking partner, Heather, is not much of an early riser but our guestimation of between 7-8am didn’t seem too horrific to her to be getting up. It had been my first attempt at a good night’s sleep in a tent with my 7lb dog, a Shih Tzu/Papillion mix named Panda. I was very pleased with how it went. Not a peep from her all night. Upon starting the car we realized (to Heather’s horror) that it was just shortly after 6am. Continue reading

Hiking the 5 peaks of Huashan Mountain, China

Situated in Huayin City, Huashan mountain is a 30 minute bullet train from Xian. It’s over 7000 feet high and one of China’s 5 sacred mountains.

Kim and I arrive in Huashan North station and catch a free green bus to the entrance of the Huashan ticket office. We’re totally confused as to where to go and why we can’t find any of the hotels we’d read about. Soon we’re swarmed by local people trying to sell us a night at their home or wanting to give us a ride somewhere. It’s very overwhelming. Continue reading